It's very difficult to describe what the realities of an occupation are. They exist in the most minute daily interactions, and yet their collective weight will warp the strongest back. This is the first part of my attempt to explain (especially to myself) how a dispossessed people live and survive.
The drive to Beit Omar is uneventful. The asphalt is smooth, as it should be. Brand new and paid for by the state of Israel. We pass by only several cars, as expected. After all, few people this deep in the Palestinian West Bank are allowed to travel on a road marked, “Jews Only.” Of course, the fact that I am not Jewish doesn’t matter. Rather, it’s a camouflaged sign—unmasked, it would read, “No Arabs Allowed.”
On the outskirts of the village I have to finish my trip on foot. Supposedly, I am entering Area A—a tiny patch of land perhaps 10 square kilometers in size, one of a handful of places where Palestinians should technically have full sovereignty over their property.
Immediately, an Israeli military watchtower dominates the landscape and the sky simultaneously. Its grey, foreboding exterior (made more serious by the row of tinted windows on top that resemble a pair of sunglasses) is broken up by four splashes of white, black, green, and red paint: the Palestinian national colors. An unearthly hum comes from deep within. This is probably one of the only air-conditioned structures in the village.
Just behind me on the paved road, a truck blocks an Israeli Defense Force Humvee from speeding past it, trapping the vehicle behind its caustic exhaust. Everyone laughs as the soldiers honk angrily to no avail. Some shabab holler at the bogged down Humvee. A small victory for the Palestinians.
From now on only dirt roads exist. Even though the last car drove by twenty minutes ago, the air is still as thick and heavy as cigarette smoke. A lone man is hosing off the road. Perhaps this is what he does with his life. Unemployment hovers around 60 to 80 percent in the idyllic village of Beit Omar. Or, as the Israeli civil authorities prefer to spell it, Beit Ummar. It is not enough for them to have expropriated much of the community’s olive groves, generously donating them to Jewish settlers (who live for free thanks to the Democratic Jewel of the Middle East). No, the Israelis must also control how the name is transliterated.
Everything and everyone must be dominated, coerced. At night teenagers from the nearby Jewish settlement sneak around and cover the English and Arabic writing on signs, leaving only the Hebrew unscathed. Their message is clear: God gave the land to the Jews. And until the signs are cleaned, the villagers must suffer the additional humiliation of having to read in the language of their oppressors. No. In this place, a simple redistribution of bountiful land is never enough.
Back to the man with the hose. His “job” is a relatively new one. Until several months ago, Beit Omar had more paved roads—dilapidated, but paved nonetheless. Then someone had a reasonable idea of improving the roads.
Work began. The Israeli civil authorities watched as plans were made. They watched as equipment was shipped. The soldiers in the watchtower observed tractors and road-breaking equipment being unloaded. A UAV took photographs from far above as meter by meter was carefully demolished. Then it photographed the men who tilled the dirt and collected any shards of the former road. Every move was carefully observed and obsessively documented. The Israelis had plenty of time. They were diligent and methodical in their actions. They always are.
When the new asphalt arrived, the Israelis quietly and courteously halted the construction, citing some obscure ordinance that prevents Palestinians from improving their own land. There was no time for argument. In a matter of minutes they killed the road.
Now, as the residents of Beit Omar walk in the dirt and choke on copious amounts of dust, they have the additional pleasure of knowing it was their own hands which ripped each chunk of precious asphalt from the ground.
The Israeli military machine will stop at nothing. It knows no decency. Only the purity of Jewish blood.
